The information that follows will provide construction of a simple stand for your Brother Sailmaker sewing machine and accessory troughs to make it easier to handle materials while sewing sails, covers, etc., for sailboats up to about 25 feet.

The stand was made to accept the sewing machine in its portable case, thus eliminating a very specialized cutout and needing a place to store the case. The wood cover can be placed on the machine while in the stand. There are also two trays or troughs to place in front and behind the machine stand, thus supporting sails and covers rolled up in scroll fashion. Figure 1 shows the sewing machine table with the troughs attached, thus presenting what will be constructed.

The construction of the sewing machine table will be discussed first. The procedures outlined are only suggestions. You may desire to modify it slightly to fit another machine or a different set of legs.

During my instruction I will reference the drawings by figure numbers. I recommend that you read each instruction and study the drawing associated with it carefully before starting work.

Look at Figure 2 at this time to get an idea of how the table will be assembled. Now let us get to work!

Table Top Assembly

Cut the front and rear table supports, and then drill the holes as noted in Figure 3. Mark a small tri angle in the end shown. This will assure that they are attached to the table top correctly.

Next cut a piece of 3/4-inch A-C plywood and 1/4-inch Masonite to 24" x 48". Refer to Figure 4, but do not make the cutout at this time. Attach the front and rear table supports to the “C” (rough) of the plywood using glue and No. 8 x 1 1/2" long flathead wood screws as shown in Figure 5. The counter bored holes should face the top of the table and be exposed. Match the triangles and be sure to locate the rear brace three inches from the end as shown. Using Contact cement, attach the Masonite to the top of the sewing machine table. Now mark and cut out the opening as shown in Figure 4. Sand all the edges of the Masonite smoothly.

Note: You may want to purchase a combi­nation type bit that will drill, pilot drill, and countersink for a No. 8 wood screw in a single operation. These are usually available at most discount stores. All screw holes must be pre-drilled.
 

Sewing Machine Support Tray

Referring to Figure 6, cut the back, front and bottom pieces of the support tray. Glue and nail or screw together, using No. 8 x 1 1/2" long flat-head wood screws. Note that the bottom is sandwiched between the front and back.

Now attach this tray assembly to the under-side of the table over the cutout. Attach with glue and eight No. 8 x l 3/4" long flat-head wood screws. The screw heads must be flush with the Masonite surface so as not to snag any fabric. Sand slightly if required. This tray will be flush with the inside of the cutout.

Legs

I purchased a set of metal legs from K-Mart, Figure 8. These are 32 inches high. The mini-mum height acceptable is about 28 inches. Assemble the legs and attach to the bottom of the sewing machine table with four 1/4” x l l/2” long (minimum) carriage bolts inserted from the top of the table on each leg. Space and drill uni­formly along the top. The right leg is placed flush with the back and end of the table. The other leg is positioned flush with the rear of the table and spaced by the rear table support (Figure 3). (The legs are located behind the front table support.)

Back Brace

Cut a back brace of 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch plywood as shown in Figure 7. Attach this to the back side of the legs, three inches from the top, using a minimum of two 1/4” x l” machine or

carriage bolts in each side. Refer to Figure 2. This completes the assembly of the sewing machine table. If the legs you purchase are a bit wobbly, add a diagonal brace across the end of each leg assembly. Attach the cover to your ma-chine and set into the table. The cover can be removed.

Cut and Assemble the Troughs

Trough Side Panels

Cut four side panels as shown in Figure 9. These should be cut from straight, smooth wood. The inside surfaces (grooved side) must be sanded smooth as well as the top edges and ends. This is to prevent snagging any fabric.

Trough Braces

Cut 10 bottom braces as noted in Figure 10.

Trough Bottom

Cut two bottom panels of 1/4” Masonite per sketch in Figure 11. These panels should be 20 1/ 2” maximum width. To be on the safe side check the total length of the braces, Figure 10, and add to this dimension the depth of both grooves in the sides, Figure 9. The bottom width should be about 1/32-inch less than the dimension. Check to see if this panel fits the groove in the side panels.

Trough Assembly

Study Figures 12 and 15 prior to assembly of the trough. Attach five braces, Figure 10, to one side panel, Figure 9, with glue and two No. 8 x 1 1/2” long flat-head wood screws in each support. The surface of the brace should be flush with the bottom side of the groove. Place glue in the groove and along the top surface of each brace. Insert the Masonite panel, smooth side up in the groove. Place glue in the groove of the other side panel and along the end of each support. Assemble the “other” side to the trough and insert wood screws as noted above. It may be easier to assemble the trough upside down.

Trough Leg and Brace Assembly

Cut four legs and braces as shown in Figure 13. If the legs on the sewing machine table are different in length than those specified, cut these to that new length. Assemble the legs and braces as shown in Figure 14. Use No. 8 x 1 1/4” f lat­head wood screws. Attach hinges as shown. Also refer to Figure 15.

Final Trough Assembly
 

Referring to the lower half of Figure 15, add two 1/4” x 2 1/2” carriage bolts to one end of each trough assembly, holding in place with a nut or epoxy glue. These must be located accurately and perpendicular to the surface of the trough. Attach the leg assembly to the other end as shown. Note the hinge acts as a stop for the leg assembly. Adding two screw eyes and a shock cord will neatly hold the leg in place. If insuffi­cient tension, place a knot in the shock cord, thus shortening it.

If all has gone well, you should now be able to set the trough leg down and attach the trough to the sewing machine table by the holes pro­vided in the front and rear table supports. For security, add a 1/4-inch wing nut on the attach­ment bolts, thus preventing it from popping out. Again, Figure 1 notes the complete assembly.