Trouble Shooting Guide

Rotary mechanism machines are remarkably trouble-free, but problems occur with any machine. This section should provide the help needed to deal with them.

1. The motor makes a clicking sound. This will often go away in a few minutes. If it doesn't, check to be sure that the pulley slot on the motor is in direct line with the slot on the pulley that it is driving. Belt tension may also be eased just a bit. In any case, there is no damage done while the clicking is heard — it is nothing more than the ball bearings in the motor slapping as they turn.

2. The machine is locked up and won't turn over. This problem is often the result of a thread caught in the shuttle race under the machine. It is often possible to find the thread sticking out of the race. Pulling on it while gently trying to turn the machine will often free it. If this does not work, remove the needle and the black position bracket (see position bracket in illustration below). The machine will now turn freely because the whole shuttle assembly (204-05-illustration "B") is free to rotate.

Rotate the machine until the three small screws that secure the "horseshoe plate" on one side of the hook assembly can be seen (see illustration). It takes a very good, small screwdriver to loosen these screws. Be careful not to damage the screws. When the horseshoe plate is removed, it should be possible to move the shuttle in its race enough to free the thread. To move the shuttle in its race simply jerk the balance wheel back and forth after replacing the black position bracket (204-01—see illustration). The position bracket must be installed so that the key fits into the notch of the shuttle. The key should only go in half of the depth of the notch.

If this is not the case, then loosen the three screws that hold the entire shuttle assembly on its shaft. Pull the entire assembly off so the parts can more easily be gripped. Freeing the thread should now be easy. Note that the inner race will come out of the outer one at only one point in its revolution. The inner race can be forced to turn but do not try to pry it out. It is not a good idea to use tools to grip the shuttle parts since they are easily broken.

If the shuttle assembly had to be removed, it will be necessary to time the machine after putting it back together (see "Timing"), otherwise the machine can be simply reassembled and promptly put to use.

3. The straight stitch is not "straight" on the bottom of the fabric. This problem is related to the design of the machine. Rotary bobbin zigzag machines tend to throw the bottom thread to one side in the straight stitch mode. Normally this problem can be solved by removing the bobbin thread from the "pigtail" on the bobbin cage. But it also helps to increase the top tension to the point where the machine forces the stitch straight. Generally speaking more upper thread tension is necessary when straight stitching than when zigzag stitching. Increased bobbin tension may also be necessary.

4. Tension increases when sewing in reverse. This problem is perfectly normal. Generally this shows up only with lightweight fabrics since the fabric does not offer much resistance to the knot being pulled through it. The presser foot does not cover and pinch the thread when reverse is used (especially in straight stitch mode). The symptoms can be reduced in severity by using a smaller needle and lower tension can be increased. Even so, one should endeavor to sew in reverse only to begin and end stitches. There is no machine that will perform as well in reverse as it does in forward.

5. The needle is difficult or impossible to insert all the way into its hole. If the set screw that holds the needle in place (202-10) is tightened when the needle is not in place, a metal burr can be forced out into the way of the needle. The proper solution is to run a #7 drill bit into the hole to clean out the burr. Note that the shuttle assembly (illustration "B") must be removed in order to slide the needle bar (202-07-illustration "A") out of its collar downward. The machine will require timing and reassembly. Try oiling the needle prior to insertion before going to the extreme of removing the needle bar.

6. There are loops on the underside of the fabric. If there is a tangle on the bottom side of the fabric, there is not enough upper tension. More than likely the thread has not be pulled snugly between the tension disks on the upper tension assembly. Release the tension assembly six turns or so and re-thread the machine. Now increase the tension to its former position. Turning the tension dial up makes it easier to wrap the thread between the disks. Or double wrap the thread on the upper tension assembly.

7. When sewing zippers, bias binding tape or other spongy materials, the stitch on the underside of the fabric is loose. This is most likely a problem because of too much presser foot pressure (the foot could be pinching the stitch knot and preventing free movement of the upper thread) or not enough upper tension. Try decreasing foot pressure by unscrewing the spring adjustment knob on the top of the machine. To increase tension try double wrapping the thread or use a heavier upper tension spring.

8. The top thread snags and balls up in front of the needle eye. This is not a problem with the eye of the needle, rather it is usually caused by the hook snagging the thread as it rotates behind the needle. The upper thread is then pulled back through the eye of the needle when the stitch is tensioned. It balls in front of the needle when it is drawn back down for the next stitch. The problem can be corrected by following these steps:

• Change the needle. The needle may be slightly bent. This could increase the gap between itself and the hook and lead to the snags.

• Loosen tension. Too much tension can separate the thread but it usually does not cause any balls at the needle eye. In any case try to loosen tension as a test.

• Is the needle facing forward? The long groove should be facing forward with the eye directly in front.

• Check needle height. This will determine how large the loop of thread under the machine will be as the needle is on its way up. If the needle bar slips up in its yoke, the loop will become smaller and, eventually, this will cause the hook to "spear" the thread instead of catching the loop. Refer to Timing Step 2.

A Final Note...

Operator experience has a good deal to do with how well a machine performs. If there is a problem, look for a solution in these instructions. Don't be reluctant to try new techniques or approaches to the work. Don't hesitate to make adjustments. The machine won't be hurt — it is meant to take abuse. And, if all else fails, feel free to call Sailrite for assistance: (800) 348-2769.