How to Adhere Leather Pieces Before Sewing

Gluing leather is usually done for two reasons: first, you can glue for a permanent bond. This is done in place of sewing. Potential uses for this gluing technique include a wallet pocket or a mouse pad. More often than not, however, leather goods will be sewn. This is done in addition to glue, especially where more strength and stability are needed – think edges of bags, sheaths, holsters, etc. In these applications, the glue is used to hold leather pieces together for sanding, for consistent stitching holes if using pricking irons for hand sewing, or to make sure your pieces don’t shift around at the sewing machine. Because leather is such a delicate material to work with – pins will leave permanent holes and the teeth on fabric clips can leave imprints on the grain – gluing is the safest, most effective way to secure leather for sewing.

Traditional glues are either solvent- or water-based adhesives. Both work and are used in the same way. One difference is that solvent-based glues are more viscous than water-based options. Water-based adhesives are easier to spread but expire more quickly and can grow mold and bacteria if not stored properly. Solvent-based adhesives thicken with time, but they can be loosened by adding an adhesive thinner. Regardless of what kind of adhesive is used, glued leather looks, feels and reacts as one piece.

The steps for using liquid glues vary depending on the type and side of leather you’re gluing. You want the surface to which you apply the glue to be rough or have some texture. If the flesh side of your leather is finished or you need to apply glue to the grain, roughing the surface will help promote better adhesion. Because leather is a fibrous material, scratching or keying it with a roughing tool, sandpaper or a scratch awl to remove the finish allows the glue to penetrate and cling to the leather fibers better.

Once your leather has been roughed, apply a thin coat of glue to both pieces only where you want to bond the leather together. (If you get glue where you don’t want it, you can break apart glued pieces with a folder once they’re completely dry.) Many brands of glue come with a brush attached to the lid of the container, but you can use a silicone or plastic spatula or a paintbrush to apply. If you’re gluing an especially large project, like lining to a bag or briefcase, you can even use a paint roller to achieve a consistent and even glue application. Let the glue dry until clear if water-based or until tacky if solvent-based and attach the pieces together. For the strongest bond, tap the glued pieces lightly with a smooth-headed leather hammer or use a leather roller.